We saw the future.”, Photography by Juergen Teller, Prosthetics Make-up by Geoff Portass, Make-up by Inge Grognard, taken from Walter Van Beirendonck's 'Dream the World Awake', published by Lannoo Publishers. “When you leave the course, you know how to design – and nothing else,” said Vercraeye. The fashion collective presented a distinct radical vision for fashion during the 1980’s that established Antwerp as a notable location for fashion design. Within just three days, they find themselves stocked at Barneys, Bergdorf and Liberty of London, and propelled into the media stratosphere. The Six+1 frequently won awards at the Golden Spindle competition, and their collections sparked an appetite in Belgian consumers. Assieme a Walter Van Beirendonck (diplomatosi nel 1980), Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Saene e Marina Yee (diplomatasi nel 1981) farà parte del celebre gruppo di stilisti noto come gli “Antwerp Six” (i sei di Anversa). No more glamour shows with top models, but just models from the street walking between the chairs. Youth culture had spread like wildfire through the 60s and 70s, and London had usurped Paris to become Europe’s cultural epicentre. She gratuated in 1981 and when she went to London in 1986 with her collection she proved herself one of the notorious six. “Events were organised by students at the Antwerp academy that you would hear of,” said Opdebeek, “but it wasn’t limited to parties. Moment 54: The Antwerp Six Dubbed by WWD in 1986 as the “twerps,” a radical wave of designers including Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten emerged out of Antwerp, Belgium. Biography. It was the same with the designers. Antwerp Six; Antwerp Six. The city was enamoured with the idea of the independent creative, encouraging young risk-takers to forge their own path, and bringing them together in pounding club and music scenes. No. But, change is infectious; the climate in Antwerp was transforming too. In 1986 he had his breakthrough with the presentation of his menswear in London, this year he also joined together with 5 other Antwerp designers, they are known as the Antwerp six. The style revolution spearheaded by the Antwerp Six in the 1980s helped establish this modern metropolis as a capital of cool. He said OK. At the academy they were taught by Linda Loppa. For the Antwerp Six, these changes in the fashion landscape proved pivotal. He asked me if I wanted to do it. The anti-glamour of the six+1’s designs were instantly popular. But, more broadly, the designers were developing in a decade synonymous with vibrancy, creativity and risk-taking. A few months later, Martin Margiela came into my store, Coccodrillo, before he went to work for Jean Paul Gaultier. Marina Yee was born in 1958 in Antwerp, Belgium. Then we had the Belgians; I realised what was happening there, and in that time London was big. It’s fashion folklore – how in 1986, a gang of Belgian designers bundled into a van, headed across Europe and caused a stir at a London tradeshow, making their mark indelibly on the decades of fashion to come. At this time the six were doing innovative work but couldn’t make an impact by only showing their work in Belgium. In 1986, six young designers (all graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts) and a shoe-seller-turned-creative-director, drove a van to London and fronted up to … The term was derived from the idea that process capability can be described by product or service deviation from specification.” (“Six Sigma Basics”). I was already working with Dries at that time. Aug 10, 2013 - Antwerp-Six, Dries Van Noten, Ann demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Walt Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, 1986 London Fashion Week “In the 80s, there was Dirk van Saene’s store in Antwerp which is where I met Dirk and his partner Walter van Beirendonck. René Pijnen (born 3 September 1946) is a track cyclist who competes internationally for Netherlands. “The term Six Sigma was coined by Bill Smith in 1986, while at Motorola. Dries Van Noten, one of the most successful members of the renowned Antwerp Six, started his own collection in 1986. London, their choice for debut, was the most open minded of all. Text Hannah Rogers. In the wee hours of the morning on October 26, 1986, Red Sox first baseman Bill Buckner lets an easy ground ball dribble between his legs and roll down the I think it has to do with the political situation in the 80s, when the world was changing very fast and we became a global community; where the identity of a small country suddenly saw the possibility to become one of the players in this global story. As a member of the vastly talented Antwerp Six, who graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1986 … We’ve reached peak internet. Photo by Karel Fonteyne, images courtesy of BOZAR. The next day we made flyers and started distributing them on the first floor, and sometime around mid afternoon that day, we suddenly had Barney’s there. Nel 1986 destò grande interesse con la sua prima collezione di scarpe maschili in stile militare. This is so fantastic!’ As they could not pronounce (the designers’) names, they just started calling (them) the Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela is the unofficial member of the group, and people call them as the Antwerp Six + 1; Margiela didn't follow the group to London at the time but he is still the key member of the graduating class with the rest. It would be true to say that without the pioneering work of The Six, who first presented collections during London Fashion Week in 1986, fashion as … I need clothes.’ I went to see Walter and told him about our plan. “If you’re from the same generation, the same country and are doing the same sport, your competitive nature stimulates each other. They knew that one day they would make it, but that was it. “The way we lived will never come back,” said Vercraeye. “That style of teaching undoubtedly helped to breed the designers it did at the time.” The result was a graduating class the transformed the reputation of Belgian fashion, earning the country notoriety for being conceptual, subversive and avant-garde. A year after that, I met Dries van Noten because I was at that moment also dressing windows for other stores. As put by Noel, “their [the collections’] particularity became classic.”, If London had Blitz nightclub to thank for bringing young creatives together, then Antwerp had Cafe D’anvers. Although I had never done this before, I agreed. Antwerp. The Antwerp Six and their experimental-meets-commercial approach to fashion opened doors for other Belgian designers, most notably Olivier Theyskens and Raf Simons, the latter of whom studied industrial design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and then interned for … People had to create something to fight against that – to create their own worlds.” Fashion, as it still does, served as a means of both expression and escape. “It is a little like what happens in sport,” Opdebeek explained. Until he started working on his own collections, he worked as a freelancer for a couple of years. Dries Van Noten, one of the most successful members of the renowned Antwerp Six, started his own collection in 1986. They had this dream and this healthy naivety to believe in it”. The breakthrough occurred in 1986 as the group rented a truck and set out for the London Fashion Week with their collections. The fashion collective presented a distinct, radical vision for fashion during the 1980s that established Antwerp … Following a decline in the once prosperous linen industry, Willem Clales, the Belgian minister of economics, launched his “textile plan”. Dries Van Noten was born in Antwerp (Belgium) in 1958. Today he is considered one of the best fashion designers in history. The breakthrough occurred in 1986 as the group rented a truck and set out for the London Fashion Fair with their collections. Though Margiela did not accompany the group to London, instead going to work for Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris from 1984, he remains a key member of the graduating class. I like to see this positively. I think there’s a bit of an urge today to become a star very soon. Location in Belgium Antwerp municipality in the province of Antwerp. I asked if he wanted to make a collection. Before that, ready-to-wear fashion was a secondary part of the couture houses. Over the next 30 years, the designs of Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee changed the international fashion scene, … The Antwerp Six changed the way Belgian fashion was perceived when they showed their avant-garde collections at London fashion week in 1986. The abstract and impersonal nature of Belgian fashion has later led to the criticism that Belgian fashion does not exist. Nearby, on the edge of the River Scheldt, a giant curvaceous concrete caterpillar - a disused hangar for shipping containers - is the setting for the academy's graduate fashion show every June.Last year, Madeleine Coisne presented her Centers … Since nobody outside of Belgium could pronounce their names they were simply called The Antwerp Six. Creatively, the scene was electric. The group identity promoted through the 80s fell away in the following decade, with the Six+1 developing their own signatures. Until he started working on his own collections, he worked as a freelancer for a couple of years. On the international stage, there was an opening for young, experimental talent. video bio profiling the career of designer Dries Van Noten, from his emergence onto the scene as part of the seminal "Antwerp Six" in 1986 up to his receipt… After this success he opened his own boutique in Antwerp with his women and men’s collections. Sailing Collection, March 1986 Courtesy of Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten, one of the Antwerp Six warmly recalls his initial, idealistic trip to London for … It was also the year that most of the Antwerp Six graduated, alongside their friend and colleague Martin Margiela. “They had huge parties,” said Nicola Vercraeye, a close colleague of Margiela who now runs owns the only stand-alone shop in Belgium. ... Bill smith who worked as an engineer in Motorola inc introduced it in 1986. Although Dirk Bikkembergs was born in Cologne, Germany, he studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. That market has changed in other ways, too. The press began referring to them as a group beginning in about 1990, though the designers are united mostly by origin and common experiences rather than style. They were all graduated from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and put Belgium on the international fashion map ever since when they presented their collections during London Fashion Week in 1986. The Antwerp Six Under Linda Loppa , who now serves as the dean of Polimoda fashion school, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee graduated … But, the Antwerp Six didn’t have that. From Raf Simons Redux by Maria Luisa Frisa, published by Ediz, courtesy. Source: Karel Fonteyne. ANTWERP — They were known as the ‘'Antwerp Six” back in the 1980s, when the idea of Belgian fashion seemed like a contradiction in terms. Their reputations were built not just through their collections, but also through their business practices; the designers avoided grand advertising strategies and worked at their own pace. 1986 was a very decisive year for Van Noten, as that is when he made his breakthrough by presenting his menswear collection in London, and also joined five other fashion designers to form the Antwerp Six. So, in 1986, they loaded up a van with their collections and took a car ferry to England to showcase their work at a London fashion fair. Both were designed to grow the fashion industry in Belgium, and to introduce young, talented home-grown designers to major ready-to-wear brands. It was coined as a target for defect-free product manufacturing. Encouraged by Helen Ravijist, a chairwoman of the Belgian Institute for Textiles & Fashion, the Fashion: It’s Belgian campaign and Golden Spindle competition were set up. Politically, times were charged: Margaret Thatcher was ruling with an iron fist, America was a financial powerhouse under Reagan, and communism fell in Eastern Europe. It felt like a pop group splitting up. I miss that.”. That changed, however, with the rise of the Antwerp Six, the influential group of avant-garde Belgian fashion designers: Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee. Economically, businesses had the money to invest and politically, unrest subconsciously provided creative stimulant. Grandson of a tailor and son of the owner of a fashion store. In 1986 a group of six graduates from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts loaded their collections into a van and drove to London Fashion Week to show off their avant-garde creations. Antwerp has long been associated with the acclaimed Antwerp Six fashion designers, but there is much more to the city than this. Career. “In Belgium, we only had the Japanese, French and Italian designers. The Antwerp Six – a label conjured up by the press not least due to the difficult pronunciation of their names – remain memorable not so much because of all the six designers individually (some maintained their place in the limelight while some faded), but because they represent the rare phenomenon of a group making an impact on the international stage simultaneously. Within just three days, they find themselves stocked at Barneys, Bergdorf and Liberty of London, and propelled into the media stratosphere. “Perhaps that stimulated creativity,” said Hendrik Opdebeek, head of menswear for Belgium’s landmark boutique Stijl in Brussels. The 1980s saw designer fashion mature into a financially viable business. He mentioned the Golden Spindle contest (an initiative launched by the Belgian government to promote designers), and said that they needed somebody to do the scenography and the coordination with the music. But, The Antwerp Six didn’t have that. Over the previous few days, six other people had died of unknown causes in northwest Chicago. You had Vivienne Westwood, Katherine Hamnett, Body Map, Culture Shock and John Galliano was just starting out. The British Government suddenly noted the potential of young designers, offering funding, hosting parties and championing the industry; Thatcher herself hosted a number of receptions in Downing Street; London Fashion Week as we know it now gained pace, showcasing a generation of ambitious graduates from the Royal College of Art, Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion. Please, I have one solution: let’s go to London’s British designers show.’. Antwerp probably won’t. So I said, ‘I’m fed up travelling with your shoes in the countryside. The Antwerp Six is a group of influential avant-garde fashion designers that graduated from the Antwerp´s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the eighties. The Antwerp Six refers to a group of fashion designers who graduated from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980–81. A group of unknown graduates from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp arrive at the British Designer Show, crammed into a small van, to present their collections. I stayed there with the designers and realised the potential of what I saw. When the designers who would later be known as the Antwerp Six packed their fledgling designs into a van and headed to London in 1986, they probably didn’t fully realize the impact they would soon make. Ann Demeulemeester actually came into the store to buy these shoes. The shape in his collections, some of which appear season after season, are conventionally feminine and invariably flattering, smartly crafted and architecturally sound. The streets of Antwerp are filled with people thinking long and hard about their sense of style. The designer, one of the original Antwerp Six who started his namesake label in 1986 and helped place Belgium on the fashion map with his avant-garde clothing, artistry and prints, is opening his first standalone US store tomorrow.